The far side of Terra del Fuego – Rio Grande.

Rental cars and 600km on the ‘wrong’ side of the road. A bit of a challenge.
The first rental the back door didn’t lock – not a good start so back we went and got a replacement vehicle – more battered but a bigger car and engine – worked out for the best.

The road was the same one we’d taken out of town on the penguin trip so not much stress there. We stopped on the recommendation of Ross and Frances at the Valley of the Wolves to see the sled dogs. The show was over but they took us around and we met a lot of the dogs, the trainer and saw the sleds. A winter activity really - the dogs had light summer coats so resembled farm dogs rather than large fluffy huskies.

Up over the Garibaldi pass – the highest pass on the island. Boiled the billy for a hot coffee and made a bread roll at an Argentinian Naval post beside Lago Fagnano – they did seem a little surprised but there were no problems and we had a welcome and peaceful lunch stop beside a huge lake.

Despite the road map having lots of names on it there were no towns – the names being estancia and farm properties. The only place that was actually a town was Tolhuin where we took a few minutes to drive round – generally dirt roads and very South American. The turnoff to San Pablo was clear enough and we went off to see how far down the coast we could go – the scenery was rather different to that on the Ushuaia side – lots of guanaco, and cattle stops – a sign stating guardaganado preceded every one and experience quickly sorted out that second gear was best as some of them were VERY rough. The estancia were well maintained and operating as farm units in contrast to Estancia Harberton which is run down, no longer operational and a tourist attraction. The sign said a hosteria operated on Es Pepe so no worries and the map showed a hosteria at San Pablo. Found the hosteria at San Pablo – a complete wreck – apparently since 1996 – right next to the ship wreck of the Desmonda – a coastal trader rusting in the shallows. Carried on to Estancia La Fueguina when we became increasingly worried about the lack of anything, the petrol tank was getting low, and there was no accommodation in sight. Finally found a well maintained farm house and tracked down the land owner who feeding his dogs. He spoke impeccable English and gently laughed at our naivety – told us to go to the end of the road about 6km on while the light was still with us – it was close to 7pm by now.

In true South American style they had completed two out of three bridges but the middle bridge was missing and without a decent 4x4 we could go no further. Ferdenandez kindly gave us some petrol and told us that Es Pepe was now closed but the Es Rioletta had accommodation – it was an interesting drive back in the dark on a dirt road – pushing it was 80km/hr and Brett commented that it was not much fun in the back. Found the homestead at Es Rioletta around 8.30pm to be told they only did accommodation on reservation. The only options were 26km back to Tolhuin or a further 90km to Rio Grande.

Back to Tolhuin – on the main road in the dark traveling at 100km on the wrong side of the road while very tired. We got there – we’d had nothing but water since 1pm at lunch so it was all getting a bit tense. Found a 24hr farmacia and one of the ladies spoke some English. They wrote directions and drew us a map – the place we found in minutes- they must have phoned the owner as well as he met us at the door. A strange little house – one double and another room with 4 single beds – Shelene was spoilt for choice. Very basic but at 9.30 we were not in any position to argue – very very hot and he seemed surprised that we wanted the heating in the bedrooms turned off.

We had an emergency meal with us – pasta and salsa which we threw together, and after a couple of cups of tea we crawled into bed.

Actually a good nights sleep despite the dogs outside our window – the Sth American way is to bark all night, and sleep all day.