Final Day - Buenos Aires

Wanting to see the Evita Museum, we took a tube to the zoo station and Shelene took in the zoo while we went to the botanical gardens.
Followed this with the Evita museum – impressive building, her clothing, shoes, handbags, and accessories. Historical video footage and the Peron Cadillac.

From here 10 blocks to the art gallery area. The modern gallery closed for two hours as we arrived so went on to the fine arts building and were wowed by traditional impressionists, dutch/european artists and also other contemporaries of these. A room of Degas, Manet’s, Monet’s etc. A gallery map would have been appreciated as it’s a great collection.

Taking pictures of a bizarre balloon seller on the main highway we were politely asked to move off the set. An actor and a film crew filming a commercial in the middle of the city.

Past the BA university (university education itself is free) and onto the Recoleta cemetery. What a truly amazing place – one moderate sized block but so many elaborate family plots (tombs). Found a number of military generals and other notary persons with very ornate family crypts. Found Evita’s family crypt and her memorial plaques.

A little overwhelming but very enjoyable. Struck up a conversation with a very strong woman from the historical cemetery preservation group. Would loved to have continued the chat – an interesting address.

The city has a great feel and some interesting sites. There are a large number of dogs, many under the control of dog walkers – the only downside being no requirement to pick up dog poo. It’s good to watch the step particularly in parks. We did see the odd dog tangle.

The other impact is a trend shown by a few young women of wearing warehouse grade patterned gumboots as street boots – noticeable and different.

The traffic rules appear random. Many more lanes seen than marked on the road, obeying traffic lights appears optional, parking is difficult – the best improvement is using yellow no drive lines as a parking space. The logic seems to be - if you can’t drive there then you must be able to park.

An all too short sojourn in a fascinating city.

Buenos Aires

After a later than planned arrival with flight delays we finally checked in - found a lovely café virtually over the road with superb service and food.

The following morning we planned our attack as we had breakfast. A guide book, the hotel map, stout shoes and a day’s walking.
We set off to find:
Tetra Colons (National Theatre), completely under scaffolding and fences under repair and Tetra Cevantes – another historic theatre – amazing mosaic tiled entrance, through the slits in the doors we could see red plush carpet and curtains.
Tribunals – Palaces de Justices – this is indeed a palace to the Justices. Vast spaces, large tiled areas and many floors. Although we passed through security metal screens as we entered we simply walked around and got as far as the third floor and large galleries with historic legal documents on display before we were challenged about our cameras and requested to go no further. Well worth the trouble.
Cathedral – a rather plain building from the outside, gothic columns and a freeze at the top, however inside it is magnificent. Large central church, multitudinous side chapels, the mausoleum to General San Martin, an organ loft and a dedicated prayer chapel. Mass was being celebrated as we visited and the music and candles added to the atmosphere.
Casa de Gobierno – the president’s palace. The building itself is a pink colour and out the front is a $101m construction site. It’s hard to see exactly what is planned from the work to date and we didn’t find an artists picture.
Government buildings - again these are also under renovation
We also passed the Defence /Army buildings, the Ministry of Economic Development building s before walking to Galerias Pacifico – a large upmarket shopping mall. The building was completed in 1908 and is now a national treasure. It has a massive central dome which when the Pacifico railroad owned the building in 1945 they commissioned murals below the dome. These murals were restored in 1978.

The final stretch took us to the Monument San Martin, and also the Palace de San Martin which now hosts the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. The street was blocked off and the red carpets laid from the entrance – didn’t manage to find out who was expected but we were allowed to sneak in (across the red carpet) and take photographs.

Dropping down the hill found a Malvinas Memorial complete with two servicemen on honour duty, and a little further over a clock tower erected by the British a century ago. It’s in disrepair and the emphasis in on Argentina.

A number of the taller buildings resemble US skyscrapers of vintage architectural style. These coupled with historic styles and modern glass buildings make an interesting mix.

The final stop was the old railway station building before we tested the subway back to the centre of town. Very quick and efficient for $2.20 peso’s.

We’ll go the other way from the hotel tomorrow.

Final goodbye to Ushuaia

The last two days in Ushuaia saw us hit the shops for take home memories and gifts. Found an All Black Adidas T-Shirt while shopping – was able to resist buying it at $279 pesos. A last visit to the Argentinian BBQ for meat and meat.

A message had come through (thanks Demelza) that our 11am flight had been cancelled and replaced with a 2.55pm flight. With the advance warning we stayed in town and posted the pics to the blog.

Still no wind and a mild day. This is just unbelievable given the area and the weather reputation – its like Wellington having three un-seasonal weeks of no wind and mild temperatures.

The Beagle was flat and glass like as we were taxied to the airport. Our luck ran out with one taxi this time and the driver threw up his hands and ordered a second cab on seeing the pile of luggage.

A further 45 minute delay before the plane arrived and we could finally load. There was a hint of wind on the water as we left – not enough to sail, but enough to make paddling more like home. Took off to the west and then looped around to the east before heading north over Argentinian airspace – right over the Garibaldi pass and the turn-off to Harberton. Briefly saw Lago Fagnuna before the cloud wiped out our view.

Onward to Buenos Aires and two days in the warmth.

Back to Ushuaia – Lapataia

The first wet day – what a difference to the country side – it all looked so different and a little gloomy. We stopped at Tolhuin at the panaderia for lunch – another pastry lunch – they certainly make great pastries.

Back in Ushuaia we went up the mountain to the bottom of the glacier walk – a good view of the town with the Beagle Channel in the background. The first heavy raindrops fell and the thunder rolled. Back into town to check the details for the National Park accommodation and facilities. Missed the park headquarters closeoff by 3 minutes so a 10 block walk to the information centre. Accommodation available at the refugio so off we went after a provision stop at the supermarkardo.

A refugio with a difference – no hot meals after 4pm, toasted sammies to 6pm, no water in the kitchen, showers available for an hour 6pm – 7pm. All this for 40 pesos – the worst refugio I’ve used. No power after 8pm (7.30 second night).
An interesting experience.

The national park walk was one I did in 2007 and it was just as beautiful again. Walked from the park headquarters end and then walked back along the road – totally out of luck in getting anyone to stop and give any of us a ride so 8km by track and 8km by road back to the car. Slightly nackered.

Took the car to the end of Route 3 – and came across a pair of grey foxes. I know they’re pests here but they were cute and came very close – especially as we threw them a couple of crackers. Right at the end of the road we came across two more trying to raid the rubbish bins – the bins have been well designed so although they stood on top of the bins the gaps are too small for the foxes to get into.

Rio Grande

The following morning we retraced our steps up the highway and continued through to Rio Grande. As we met the coast we turned off the highway and took a dirt road down to the beach - a very long bay with a very high tidal surge – 11 metres was the figure quoted. A great spot to eat our pastries from the Tolhuin panaderia – 9 pesos for 6 large pastries. Pastries and fresh coffee.

Back on the road and into Rio Grande at about 2.30. Found a park and a parking attendant rushed out to pass us a parking pass for 1 hour for 1.75 pesos. Directed to Information from a money exchange. Information were wonderfully helpful – found us accommodation and then gave us directions – a lovely home stay with a family. Completely different again. Walked along the waterfront and then onto a recommended artisan studio. While walking we heard Shelene Shelene! - Ross and Frances drove up to us and after much laughter we all agreed to meet for dinner – a little pizza place with a large Piscola sign out the front that we’d seen earlier. They’d camped for two days on Harburton so showers were high on their priority list.

On one of our walks we found a children’s indoor play area – similar to Chipmunks. Visible from the window was a large old fashioned merry-go-round. The three big kids wandered in, took photos and stared to the amusement of parents and kids.

Saw several Mulvinas monuments and the local barracks. Stopped at the cemetery on the way out – incredible family crypts with glass panels in the doors through which we could see caskets on shelves. A very different way of honoring the dead.

The far side of Terra del Fuego – Rio Grande.

Rental cars and 600km on the ‘wrong’ side of the road. A bit of a challenge.
The first rental the back door didn’t lock – not a good start so back we went and got a replacement vehicle – more battered but a bigger car and engine – worked out for the best.

The road was the same one we’d taken out of town on the penguin trip so not much stress there. We stopped on the recommendation of Ross and Frances at the Valley of the Wolves to see the sled dogs. The show was over but they took us around and we met a lot of the dogs, the trainer and saw the sleds. A winter activity really - the dogs had light summer coats so resembled farm dogs rather than large fluffy huskies.

Up over the Garibaldi pass – the highest pass on the island. Boiled the billy for a hot coffee and made a bread roll at an Argentinian Naval post beside Lago Fagnano – they did seem a little surprised but there were no problems and we had a welcome and peaceful lunch stop beside a huge lake.

Despite the road map having lots of names on it there were no towns – the names being estancia and farm properties. The only place that was actually a town was Tolhuin where we took a few minutes to drive round – generally dirt roads and very South American. The turnoff to San Pablo was clear enough and we went off to see how far down the coast we could go – the scenery was rather different to that on the Ushuaia side – lots of guanaco, and cattle stops – a sign stating guardaganado preceded every one and experience quickly sorted out that second gear was best as some of them were VERY rough. The estancia were well maintained and operating as farm units in contrast to Estancia Harberton which is run down, no longer operational and a tourist attraction. The sign said a hosteria operated on Es Pepe so no worries and the map showed a hosteria at San Pablo. Found the hosteria at San Pablo – a complete wreck – apparently since 1996 – right next to the ship wreck of the Desmonda – a coastal trader rusting in the shallows. Carried on to Estancia La Fueguina when we became increasingly worried about the lack of anything, the petrol tank was getting low, and there was no accommodation in sight. Finally found a well maintained farm house and tracked down the land owner who feeding his dogs. He spoke impeccable English and gently laughed at our naivety – told us to go to the end of the road about 6km on while the light was still with us – it was close to 7pm by now.

In true South American style they had completed two out of three bridges but the middle bridge was missing and without a decent 4x4 we could go no further. Ferdenandez kindly gave us some petrol and told us that Es Pepe was now closed but the Es Rioletta had accommodation – it was an interesting drive back in the dark on a dirt road – pushing it was 80km/hr and Brett commented that it was not much fun in the back. Found the homestead at Es Rioletta around 8.30pm to be told they only did accommodation on reservation. The only options were 26km back to Tolhuin or a further 90km to Rio Grande.

Back to Tolhuin – on the main road in the dark traveling at 100km on the wrong side of the road while very tired. We got there – we’d had nothing but water since 1pm at lunch so it was all getting a bit tense. Found a 24hr farmacia and one of the ladies spoke some English. They wrote directions and drew us a map – the place we found in minutes- they must have phoned the owner as well as he met us at the door. A strange little house – one double and another room with 4 single beds – Shelene was spoilt for choice. Very basic but at 9.30 we were not in any position to argue – very very hot and he seemed surprised that we wanted the heating in the bedrooms turned off.

We had an emergency meal with us – pasta and salsa which we threw together, and after a couple of cups of tea we crawled into bed.

Actually a good nights sleep despite the dogs outside our window – the Sth American way is to bark all night, and sleep all day.

Ushuaia

The first shower in Ushuaia after 11 days on Spirit was simply fabulous – we all took our time and finally managed to feel clean - its not the Spirit doesn’t have a shower – it does but it’s a very small space and involves wetting the body, then soaping it and then rinsing it off, all individual steps remembering that fresh hot water is at a premium and only available when the hot water circuit is operational.

A couple of days R&R just looking around the city, the museums (finally saw a beaver - a stuffed one), a farewell dinner with Darryl and Craig from Spirit, sorting laundry, arranging a rental car and a trip to the penguins and Estancia Harberton and catching up on some sleep. Just having a large spacious room was a welcome treat. Brett and my berth on Spirit was next to the bathroom which did lead to a rather broken sleep. The weather continued to be fine and the light was great for our own postcard shots.

The early history museums are fascinating in a very traditional museum way – The early colonists and missionaries did not do these people much of a favour – the clothing and education destroyed their heritage and the introduced diseases ravaged the population.

The local municipal workers staged a wage protest – a large BBQ in 44 gallon drums in the middle of the main street outside the information center for most of the day – detours were set up and sausages were for all.

We also got to experience a short sharp wind storm that the region is famous for. Brett and I were arranging the rental car while Shelene was returning charts that we’d borrowed to copy to Spirit. The sky became increasingly dark and then a strong wind sprang up (100km) out of no where accompanied by heavy rain. Shelene watched a couple of kayakers down on the harbour hug the yacht wharf posts for dear life before being rescued. It was an offshore wind that lasted for about half an hour so the next stop would have been someway distant if they hadn’t grabbed the wharf.